Momofuku: Inventive Fusion Restaurant

Last night I went to Momofuku Ssam Bar:

Its menu is inventive and adventurous (not for the average American palate) offering country hams, raw bar items, and off cuts.  I consider myself an adventurous eater, having tried tripe in Chengdu and chicken feet in Beijing, but most of these menu items were new to me.

To be honest, I thought "sweetbread" was going to be a loaf of bread.  The possibility of it being the thymus gland of a calf had never crossed my mind.  I just casually ordered the following with little awareness of what I would be consuming:

6 Oysters
4 Steamed Buns
Veal Sweetbreads
Spicy Pork Sausage with Rice Cakes








I should mention, I ate with my boyfriend, Alex, who at 6'8 has an appetite to match his height.

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the menu changes daily and is subject to change  |  last updated 11/14/2011

ssäm bar dinner

raw barroyal miyagi oysters (bc) – fuji apple, lime, chili
jonah crab claws – harissa mayo
corvina – plum, mitsuba, green peppercorn
diver scallop – quince, meyer lemon leaf, celery
santa barbara uni – tomato, mustard oil, chawanmushi

small dishesseasonal pickles
steamed buns – pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers, scallions
bread & butter – sea salt butter (vt), whipped lardo
duck sandwich – iceberg, spicy mayo, peppadews

country hamfinchville farm’s ham (finchville, ky)
burger’s ozark ham (california, mo)
benton’s smoky mountain ham (madisonvile, tn)
edward’s wigwam ham (surry, va)

seasonalchanterelles – pickled quail eggs, bone marrow, green juniper
market greens – xo sauce
honeycrisp apple kimchi – maple labne, jowl bacon, arugula
shaved dry aged sirloin – edamame, radish, lemon verbena

off cutsspicy honeycomb tripe – ginger-scallion, celery, pickled tomatoes
veal sweetbreads – almond, sauerkraut, thai chili

fishmatsutake dashi – fish balls, sepia, lily bulb
p.e.i. mussels – apple cider, jalapeno, pork jowl
catfish – kabocha squash curry, green mango, peanut
whole boneless porgy – lollo rossa, lemon, black garlic

meat
braised heritage farms goat – azuki beans, feta, agrinio olives
bev eggleston’s pork shoulder steak – cauliflower, piperade, pine nuts
roasted lamb loin & belly – bulgur, snap peas, egg yolk
poached chicken – sticky rice, maitake mushrooms, spring onion
spicy pork sausage & rice cakes – chinese broccoli, sichuan peppercorn
grilled dry aged ribeye (niman ranch) – shallot confit

dessertsweet potato ice cream – root beer, orange
chocolate parfait – matcha, plum, dulce de leche

bo ssäm pork shoulder meal is also available. click here for our online reservation system

rotisserie duck ssäm – chive pancakes, bibb lettuce, hoisin, duck scallion, crispy shallots, two sides***
***sides change daily
***the rotisserie duck meal is parties of 1-6 guests, and it must be reserved in advance. click here for our online reservation system

After ordering, Alex asks, do you even know what sweetbreads are?  The last time he ate them at a straight-off-the-farm" restaurant in upstate NY he said it was just an "organ on a plate. " Fortunately for us, this time it was fantastic!  It was lightly fried and served in a creamy thai chili.  The gland itself was soft and smooth, like a quality buffalo mozzarella that melts in your mouth.  The juxtaposition of the crunchy fried exterior and the juicy soft interior made this my favorite item of the night.  The cream chili sauce didn't hurt either. 

The oysters, which indicated what was to come in terms of phenomenal flavor and inventive pairings, were the best I had ever eaten.  Having tried oysters in nearly every state along the northeast coast, and attended the Norwalk Oyster Festival, I have had my share of great oysters; however they have never been seasoned with chopped pieces of fuji apple, lime and chili.  Who would have thought that combination of flavors would satisfy the palate?  

The steamed buns are a patron favorite, and I can see why.  The steamed bun, a Chinese cuisine staple, was filled with housin sauce, cucumbers, scallions and a inch-think slice of pork belly.  The pork belly has a thick layer of fat and thick layer of meat.  It oozed with fat flavor as I bit into it.  I was a little alarmed by the crunch I felt in the second bite, but found that it was the cucumber, which was a welcomed addition, once I realized what it was.  They were so good we ordered a second serving. 

The pork sausage was great too, although I have to admit I wasn't sure where the meat was at first.  I thought the rice cakes, shaped like little tubules, were the sausages, until I took another spoonful and came up with spirals of pork in a warm and spicy sichuan peppercorn sauce.  

Almost forgot...we also got the chocolate parfait, which was a log of chocolate ganache, with a hard top layer and crumbles of dark chocolate underneath, served with a green whipped cream sauce on the plate.  The color was a bit disconcerting at first, but the flavor and the texture put my mind and palate at ease.  

I recommend it to anyone with a sense of adventure (and a full wallet).  It is a fun and loud atmosphere where you can get truly unique food.  By the way, did I mention that organ meats are high in fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, K) and B vitamins and are loaded with minerals like zinc, iron, phosphorus, magnesium, and iodine.  

Cheers!